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The Ancient Craft of Goldsmithing (1/2)

Since the beginning of human history, people have adorned themselves with jewellery. Gold has been worked in many cultures. Fine objects from antiquity and modern times are treasured by museums and collectors around the world. In the Egyptian and Greco-Roman eras, jewellery became a symbol of social rank and the jeweller's art as a well-respected craft was born. In medieval Europe, goldsmiths and silversmiths were skilled artisans of high repute, were organised in guilds and started using hallmarks.
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The Ancient Craft of Goldsmithing (2/2)

The jeweller's trade, amongst many others, was dramatically changed by the Industrial Revolution. In the 18th and 19th centuries, with the use of mass production jewellery became affordable to almost everyone. In the 20th century, the style, function and quality of jewellery became highly diversified. Despite the fact, that fully educated and experienced goldsmiths have the most extensive knowledge and skills to practice as jewellers, unfortunately they have been loosing their leading role, replaced by cheaper alternatives of lower quality. For more information on fine jewellery, please visit our blog: vancouverjewellery.com .
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What is fine jewellery?

Nowadays, there is a large variety of jewellery available to consumers in terms of quality, function, style, materials and fabrication methods. The definition of "fine jewellery" is not an easy one partly due to constant misuse of the expression. At Magic Deer Jewellery we define it as; personal ornaments made of the most precious metals and gems, distinguished by very "fine" design and quality workmanship. The value of a piece is determined by several factors such as; design, craftsmanship, manufacturing methods and materials used. You can expect to pay more for jewellery characterised by appealing look, spotless finishing, and durability. As well, you can certainly expect to pay more for a design that is custom handmade than for a mass-produced model. Finally, you also have to expect to pay more for more expensive metals, like platinum and higher quality and/or larger gems.
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Precious Metals

The three most commonly used precious metals in fine jewellery fabrication are silver, gold and platinum. Silver is the least expensive of them, bright white in color and very soft. Platinum is by far the most expensive. It is bright greyish-white, very ductile and the most resistant to tarnishing. In making fine jewellery, the most widely used types of gold are: the 19 karat white, the 18 karat yellow and white gold alloys. Pure gold is bright yellow and very malleable it is actually too soft for most jewellery applications. Just like the other two metals gold is usually alloyed to change its physical properties. Alloying makes gold sturdier and more durable and greatly changes its natural color. Depending on the alloy metals and their quantity the natural color of gold can turn yellowish, pinkish or white.
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Gemstones

Genuine natural gemstones are used in making fine jewellery. Generally speaking, gemstones are basically attractive pieces of minerals, but some organic materials -like pearls- are also considered gems. The most precious gemstones include: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, opal and pearl. The majority of gems are cut and polished to enhance attractive optical characteristics, such as color, lustre, brilliance and dispersion. They can be cut as smooth, dome shaped cabochons or multi-faceted, sparkling shapes like the brilliant, princess or emerald cut. The value of gemstones is determined by their availability, color, clarity, cut and weight therefore, their price-range is very wide.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (1/4)

The creation of fine jewellery is truly an art from the design concept to the finishing touches. A fine goldsmith needs only his eyes and hand tools to shape beautiful jewellery. Despite the latest technological advances, which permit virtually anyone to become a "jeweller", the human touch is still crucial in the world of fine jewellery. The main method of creating a top-quality, one-of-a kind piece is still hand fabrication. The most accomplished and sophisticated designers still create their artwork entirely by hand.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (2/4)

The other, more widespread method to produce jewellery employs the method of "lost-wax casting". In this case, the design is first sculpted in wax. Today, this step can be done with the aid of computer software and sophisticated machinery and the results are impressive. The wax piece is then invested in special plaster. When the wax is burned out in an oven it leaves a cavity behind, which is almost identical to the original prototype. Finally, the cavity is filled with molten metal reproducing the wax model in metal. Compared to hand fabrication, the use of casting dramatically reduces production time. Especially, when the wax pieces can be cast with the gemstones already set in them.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (3/4)

Are there any drawbacks associated with casting? The age-old method of lost-wax casting was perfected and adopted in the jewellery industry in the early 20th century. The intent was to increase output and reduce production costs. There are however, limitations associated with this method. Although casting is a relatively simple technology great care and discipline must be applied to achieve good, consistent results. Porosity is the most frequent problem associated with casting. It usually appears as tiny pits or holes in jewellery or sometimes "cloudy," dull surfaces. In most cases, it is very time consuming and difficult to get rid of imperfections during the finishing of a cast item.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (4/4)

In conclusion, there is definitely a place for casting in making fine jewellery, as long as it is done professionally, with quality equipment, knowledge, skills and the necessary diligence. Unfortunately, in our highly competitive industry under constant price pressure, some manufacturers tend to cut too many corners. Employing unskilled or semi-skilled jewellers and skipping necessary steps in the manufacturing process often result in poorly made jewellery that should not be for sale in stores.
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Jewellery Care

Fine jewellery is made of delicate and expensive materials. Precious metals are relatively soft and can be easily scratched, dented, bent or damaged. Gemstones can crack or chip if hit or dropped. The lifespan of jewellery can be significantly extended through good care. Avoid wearing jewellery, especially rings while handling heavy, hard objects and during any kind of rough labour, such as construction or assembling. Periodically, jewellery should be checked for security. Clasps, locks, links and settings must be fixed or replaced at the first sign of trouble to avoid costly failures. Jewellery should be cleaned and polished regularly to restore its lustre. For repair and maintenance one should always trust a qualified and experienced goldsmith.
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