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The Ancient Craft of Goldsmithing (1/2)
Since the beginning of human history, people have adorned themselves
with jewellery. Gold has been worked in many cultures. Fine objects
from antiquity and modern times are treasured by museums and
collectors around the world.
In the Egyptian and Greco-Roman eras, jewellery became a symbol of
social rank and the jeweller's art as a well-respected craft was born.
In medieval Europe, goldsmiths and silversmiths were skilled artisans
of high repute, were organised in guilds and started using hallmarks.
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The Ancient Craft of Goldsmithing (2/2)
The jeweller's trade, amongst many others, was dramatically changed by
the Industrial Revolution. In the 18th and 19th centuries, with the
use of mass production jewellery became affordable to almost everyone.
In the 20th century, the style, function and quality of jewellery
became highly diversified. Despite the fact, that fully educated and
experienced goldsmiths have the most extensive knowledge and skills to
practice as jewellers, unfortunately they have been loosing their
leading role, replaced by cheaper alternatives of lower quality.
For more information on fine jewellery, please visit our blog:
vancouverjewellery.com
.
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What is fine jewellery?
Nowadays, there is a large variety of jewellery available to consumers
in terms of quality, function, style, materials and fabrication
methods. The definition of "fine jewellery" is not an easy one partly
due to constant misuse of the expression. At Magic Deer Jewellery we
define it as; personal ornaments made of the most precious metals and
gems, distinguished by very "fine" design and quality workmanship.
The value of a piece is determined by several factors such as; design,
craftsmanship, manufacturing methods and materials used. You can
expect to pay more for jewellery characterised by appealing look,
spotless finishing, and durability. As well, you can certainly expect
to pay more for a design that is custom handmade than for a
mass-produced model. Finally, you also have to expect to pay more for
more expensive metals, like platinum and higher quality and/or larger
gems.
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Gemstones
Genuine natural gemstones are used in making fine jewellery. Generally
speaking, gemstones are basically attractive pieces of minerals, but
some organic materials -like pearls- are also considered gems. The
most precious gemstones include: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald,
opal and pearl. The majority of gems are cut and polished to enhance
attractive optical characteristics, such as color, lustre, brilliance
and dispersion. They can be cut as smooth, dome shaped cabochons or
multi-faceted, sparkling shapes like the brilliant, princess or
emerald cut. The value of gemstones is determined by their
availability, color, clarity, cut and weight therefore, their
price-range is very wide.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (1/4)
The creation of fine jewellery is truly an art from the design concept
to the finishing touches. A fine goldsmith needs only his eyes and
hand tools to shape beautiful jewellery. Despite the latest
technological advances, which permit virtually anyone to become a
"jeweller", the human touch is still crucial in the world of fine
jewellery. The main method of creating a top-quality, one-of-a kind
piece is still hand fabrication. The most accomplished and
sophisticated designers still create their artwork entirely by hand.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (2/4)
The other, more widespread method to produce jewellery employs the
method of "lost-wax casting". In this case, the design is first
sculpted in wax. Today, this step can be done with the aid of computer
software and sophisticated machinery and the results are impressive.
The wax piece is then invested in special plaster. When the wax is
burned out in an oven it leaves a cavity behind, which is almost
identical to the original prototype. Finally, the cavity is filled
with molten metal reproducing the wax model in metal. Compared to hand
fabrication, the use of casting dramatically reduces production time.
Especially, when the wax pieces can be cast with the gemstones already
set in them.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (3/4)
Are there any drawbacks associated with casting? The age-old method of
lost-wax casting was perfected and adopted in the jewellery industry
in the early 20th century. The intent was to increase output and
reduce production costs. There are however, limitations associated
with this method. Although casting is a relatively simple technology
great care and discipline must be applied to achieve good, consistent
results. Porosity is the most frequent problem associated with
casting. It usually appears as tiny pits or holes in jewellery or
sometimes "cloudy," dull surfaces. In most cases, it is very time
consuming and difficult to get rid of imperfections during the
finishing of a cast item.
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Handmade vs. Cast Jewellery (4/4)
In conclusion, there is definitely a place for casting in making fine
jewellery, as long as it is done professionally, with quality
equipment, knowledge, skills and the necessary diligence.
Unfortunately, in our highly competitive industry under constant price
pressure, some manufacturers tend to cut too many corners. Employing
unskilled or semi-skilled jewellers and skipping necessary steps in
the manufacturing process often result in poorly made jewellery that
should not be for sale in stores.
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Jewellery Care
Fine jewellery is made of delicate and expensive materials. Precious
metals are relatively soft and can be easily scratched, dented, bent
or damaged. Gemstones can crack or chip if hit or dropped. The
lifespan of jewellery can be significantly extended through good care.
Avoid wearing jewellery, especially rings while handling heavy, hard
objects and during any kind of rough labour, such as construction or
assembling.
Periodically, jewellery should be checked for security. Clasps, locks,
links and settings must be fixed or replaced at the first sign of
trouble to avoid costly failures. Jewellery should be cleaned and
polished regularly to restore its lustre. For repair and maintenance
one should always trust a qualified and experienced goldsmith.
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